I was excited to read a the book that set a “new standard by which all correspondents might approach other forgotten wars.”

Bryan Mealer’s All Things Must Fight to Live: Stories of War and Deliverance in Congo was all at once more than I expected and more of the same.

He begins:

There were journalists, aid workers, diplomats, diamond dealers, assorted opportunists, and third world peacekeepers…when we arrived, there was always the same war. Many came simply to test themselves against the brutal country, and I’ve learned there is nothing wrong with that. What mattered was the kind of prints you left behind in the red dirt. Five centuries of those bootprints now packed the soil and snaked into the trees, so many they bled into one enormous trail that hid below the camouflage and slowly choked the land.

But get down close and you can see.

One of those trails was mine.

When I first read this book about a month ago, I was enthralled with the story Mealer told. I finished the book in a couple of days, cherising chameos by colleagues whose paths crossed with Mealer’s, and reading it with awe, envy and an eye towards understanding.

There are a few great books about Congo that I know of: King Leopold’s Ghost and In the Footsteps of Mr. Kurtz at the forefront. The first here takes care of colonial eras, then next of Mobutu’s reign.

Mealer picks up where they left off, but in a differnet genre. The title promises war and deliverance, but I felt there was a lot more war than deliverance. Ultimately, I think that’s as much about Congo as it is about Mealer.

In the first half, he writes about his original forays in Congo, convering news in Ituri and then later in Kinshasa. In the second half, he seems tired. Tired of Congo, tired of traveling, tired of noise and bugs and heat and bad food and bad nights. The writing, which shines in the first half, falters in the second. It’s tired. The book becomes less about Congo and more about Mealer in Congo.

I thought of Michela Wrong’s words in an essay I linked to just a few days ago, about young male journalists writing about Africa:

You deliver a manuscript that is all about you, with Africa as a picturesque backdrop to your macho derring-do.

And then I thought of a comment on my blog post about the contruction accident on Tuesday. And I thought of one of the comments:

From the tone of the post, I felt the journalism/photography took precedence over the tragedy, which to me is even sadder.

I wrote, in reply:

@bsk – I fear you may be right about the tone, but I think on my side I was trying to comment on how journalism handles tragedy. As a photographer covering this kind of thing, I don’t have the ability to spend time investigating the construction company practices or speak to people at length about their losses. I have to get in, get photos, get out, file photos, as quickly as humanly possible. AP hires me because they know I can accomplish this task.

In this post, my goal was not to make my work more important than the tragedy, but to account an experience and maybe shed some light on tragedy and the media. I’m sorry this made you even sadder than the deaths of seven people, but I really hope that’s an exaggeration.

At some point, there has to be balance between the author and the subject. Without the author’s presence, some readers who are disconnected from the subject will only be futher alienated. With too much of it, a reader who didn’t purchase a memoir wants his money back.

I’m not sure where the line is, but I think for the most part, Mealer does a good job tightrope walking.

Mealer stayed in Congo on and off for several years. While that’s not as long as Michela Wrong, it’s long enough to see fresh faces come and go, a journalist from New York who has a business card that is a metal dog tag, and violence junkies who have been to every hot spot on the planet.

It’s also long enough to form a real and meaningful relationship with his translator and fixer Lionel, who he tries to convince that Fela Kuti is way better than Phil Collins, with only marginal success. It’s long enough to reach remote places and transform them from dots on a map to places with details and description.

And he kept going back, even when there was more war than deliverance.

A friend who did some work in Congo (and incidentally reviewed Mealer’s book) blogged recently, from New York,

I finally understand that thing I’ve read about in books, where hardened correspondents talk about the desperation they feel to return to the completely screwed places they’ve covered when things take a turn for the worse. It means something different when you know how that place looks in real life, and something gnaws at your gut, beckoning you back.

But for now, I’m here. I’m here, wishing to be there. Which is something those 100,000 people would probably think the stupidest thing they’ve ever heard.

In a way, I’m glad she’s not there. Things aren’t good. And when things are the way they are right now, stories like her piece on cattle theft or chikudus are less pressing to publish, and less possible to report since movement is heavily restricted.

On an accident scene and in a war zone, the possibilities for the kinds of stories you can tell are restricted by concerns about safety for yourself and the people who answer your questions and the immediacy of what’s happening around you.

I think Mealer is a great writer and a great journalist. And I hope he goes back to Congo – again – at a time when he can tell another kind of story.

WARNING: THIS POST CONTAINS GRAPHIC CONTENT.

d4f42581988950b10899f17c62fdfab3 If it bleeds...
Copyright Glenna Gordon/Associated Press

It happened yesterday around 11:50 AM. I got a call around 12:30. I was at the site by 12:50.

I once had a journalism school teacher who said 80 percent of journalism was showing up on time with all your equipment charged and ready.

I was there as fast as humanly possible, with all my equipment charged and ready.

Another thing they told me a journalism school: If it bleeds, it leads.

Associated Press hasn’t had interest in many Uganda stories, but when I spoke with the photo editor in Nairobi, he was interested in photos of a construction site accident in the middle of town that left at least seven people dead and more injured. He told me to go get images, and to be careful, be safe. (This is the AP low budget hostile environment training course.)

On the boda ride to the site, I didn’t know exactly what to expect, but felt exhilarated by the rush, the work, the immediacy. I thought of the passing scenery in F-stop/aperture ratios, set the ISO and white balance in my head.

Then I arrived. The site was boarded up, people peering in through cracks in the awning. I made my way in. From the top, it was hard to tell exactly what was happening, but as I got closer, it was clear.

89cd95eabfc735504e6ad3c9ef0f2b2f If it bleeds...
Copyright Glenna Gordon/Associated Press

Many dead, more injured. The foundation of a construction site had collapsed, burying all the workers nearby in a flash. The number of dead bodies I’ve seen went up by a percentage somewhere in the four figure range.

51d4f83148d7cf5940394d2207b9dc7b If it bleeds...
Copyright Glenna Gordon/Associated Press

At first I took general shots, wide angle views, captured the scene. But then I went in closer, as I knew I’d need to in order to get any decent shots. I have never thought about composing a photo of a dead body, but yesterday I did. There were moments I had to back up and allow myself a bit of hyperventilating, but then I continued. I let the ratios become automatic, changed the settings on my camera without thinking.

I flinched at the dead body in the police truck. His toes made me sad and scared. I flinched at the chunk of flesh missing from the back of someone’s head. I flinched at someone’s head flattened and egg-shaped.

a82075aad2d49798f39a9c0a47c7ef2f If it bleeds...
Copyright Glenna Gordon/Associated Press

I flinched again when I left and then edited my photos, which captured details I hadn’t even seen: a man on a gurney with his fingers curled up, a construction worker irate as he uncovered what must have been his friend’s body.

I wish it weren’t true that if it bleeds it leads. But AP hasn’t asked me for photos for months, and yesterday they did.

A few hours after I filed, my editor in Nairobi called me and said that one of my images was an AP Top Picture of the Day. Should I be happy about that kind of thing?

f5fe9a09b34df748f053ac26e23a2a1e If it bleeds...
Copyright Glenna Gordon/Associated Press

2fb66d0af345f4949395ec9867672926 Obama buttons for sale in Uganda
9f9779de7a8ac5b60636633ac33dae5f Obama buttons for sale in Uganda

Though Barack Obama has a huge support base in Kenya because of his ancestry, the half-African is also popular in neighboring Uganda.

Everyone knows Kenyans love US Presidential Candidate Barack Obama, but he also has a huge support base in Uganda. Street vendors sell home made buttons with the half-Kenyan’s face and “OBAMA 08″ in bold fonts. There is even talk of naming a street after Obama in Western Uganda.

Journalism about Africa consists mainly of 600 words from Reuters, 800 from AFP, a minute of radio on BBC, or books written by wire journalists who want to do something more. There aren’t a lot of the 10,000 word magazine pieces or “new journalism” stories that every J-School graduate dreams of composing. This is partially beacuse there aren’t a lot of outlets for 10,000 word pieces, and those that do exist are rarely interested in Africa. And even if they are, they are usually uninterested in the costs involved in a journalist writing that kind of piece.

These are a few pieces listed here that I know of and read greedily. These pieces are in no particular order and are heavily weighted towards places and topics that interest me. But I’d love ot read more work in this vein on other places and topics if you readers would like to suggest some.

Ten Conover, Trucking Through the AIDS Belt
New Yorker, 1993
AIDS in East Africa before ARVs or Pepfar, with some interesting observations about Rwanda right before the genocide

Adam Higginbotham, The Gangster Prince of Liberia
Details, 2007
Interesting piece on Charles Taylor’s son – his Florida and Liberia escapades documented in full with more than a little cliche but still some finesse

Helen Epstein, God and the Fight against AIDS
New York Review of Books, 2005
How religion plays a large role in Uganda’s HIV prevention and treatment strategies. Not all of the information currently holds true, but Epstein’s ground breaking research on HIV was conducted mainly in Uganda and makes this article a good read

John Ryle, Tropical Baroque, African reality and the work of Ryszard Kapuscinski
Times Literary Supplement, 2001
Love Kapuscinki? You might still love him after you read this piece on the accuracy of his work, but you’ll at least know more about what you’re reading.

Andrew Rice, A Dying Breed
New York Times Magazine, 2008
Didn’t think Ankole cattle were that interesting? Neither did I until I read this piece which is as much about some cows as it is about the development industry

Ron Rosenbaum, How to trick an online scammer into carving a computer out of wood
Atlantic, 2007
Not about Africa per say, though a good bit devoted to Nigerian scam artists and what’s really happening when people engage in scam baiting

Barry Bearak, In Destitute Swaziland, Leaders Live Like Royalty
New York Times, 2008
Not a long piece, but written like a fairy tale, very fitting for the topic

Bryan Mealer, Congo’s Daily Blood: Ruminations on a Failed State
Harpers Magazine, 2006
I don’t have a log in to Harper’s but I remember reading this piece in 2006 and thinking it was great. I also recently read Mealer’s new book so stay tuned for a review

Sam Knight, Births of a Nation
Finanical Times Magazine, 2008
Again with the log in! If my memory from March of this year is correct, this is a well done piece about how Uganda’s high birth rate is affecting average people now, and what it will mean in a few decades

Notice that all but one of these pieces are by men? Funny becasue I did too!! Michela Wrong, author of In the Footsteps of Mr. Kurtz has some interesting things to say about why this might be and why men think they can speak for a coninent when women think they can’t. I love Wrong’s work, and also Alexandra Fuller’s work, but other than that, there aren’t too many women writing long-form pieces about Africa these days.

Think I’m wrong? Send me some links! I’d love to be wrong about this.

391fc8d770174cb67a877fa5f24f006b MTN, Let me Count the Ways...
What just happened:
Someone from MTN just called me. He wanted to know if he could put my name on the media accreditation list to cover the upcoming MTN marathon for the Associated Press.

I told him I didn’t think the AP would be interested in this. Can I put your name on the list anyway? he asked. I replied, sure, if you want, but this isn’t quite international news.

It’s getting there, he assured me.
I said to call me back when it’s there.

What I think:

  1. AP has almost zero Africa budget right now, all monies having gone to the Chinese Olympics and now to the American elections.
  2. AP doesn’t care. Even if they had money for me to be out covering things this would not qualify.
  3. I hate MTN.


Why:
MTN, you are awful. Appfrica recently did an interview with Erik van Veen, a big shot at MTN, where he says that MTN makes very little money off of broadband internet. Hm. Interesting. Given the prices, it seems they probably make more money off of me, as a broadband internet user, than say, someone who lives in the village and has a Katorchi and spends 2k per month on airtime.

Let’s say they do make more money off of me than said village resident. Even marginally. You would then think that they would care about me as a customer and the millions of shillings I spend. Yet, when I call because there’s a problem with my internet, they say, call 122. That number is like a hotline in the USA where you’d call for tech support but has the following problems:

  1. It’s not toll free
  2. I wait on hold, spending my airtime, for at least 10 to 20 minutes every time I call in
  3. When I finally reach someone, he or she will usually ask me if I know how to restart my computer.

So no, Mr. MTN, I will not be photographing your marathon for AP or for anyone else.

Another, unrelated, recent MTN run in:
MTN sales people are not expected to know what their products can and cannot do.

5334c63b30114e2d117f5595298f0d64 Eid: Photo of the day, from the other day
More Eid photos on Scarlett Lion

img 61821 Walrus: Rosh Hashanah in Africa

“There’s a man here with one leg, five women, and thirty-two children,” Sarah Shambe tells me, on the day of Rosh Hashanah, as we walk away from Eid prayers to her two-room home in a suburb of Kampala, Uganda. Sarah spent the morning praying in an open field with thousands of other Ugandan Muslims. Now that the praying is done, she fills me in on the neighbours.

I didn’t know Sarah before about an hour ago, but now she’s invited me to her home. This is after prayers where small kids ate ice cream in shades of bright pink and pastel orange, and music played in the background while friends and relatives greeted each other, and everyone wore their best clothes for Eid, and people prayed in a clearing under the clouds in front of the Kampala skyline.

This is how I spend my Rosh Hashanah in Africa: observing Eid.

Back at Sarah’s house, her sister visiting from Nairobi makes a sweet called “Tambi.” She deep-fries vermicelli noodles, adds sugar, vanilla, and cardamom, and then boils the concoction. It makes me think of kugel. I drink a sticky sweet fruit soda called Mirinda. In color and taste and everything but the syrupy residue of low alcohol content, it makes me think of Manishevitz.

More on the Walrus…