Everyone in Kampala watches football (that’s soccer, right). But not everyone can buy a drink at a bar or restaurant with a TV. When it’s match time, people spill outside bars, leaning over each other’s shoulders, crowded around the sidewalk closest to the screen.

On the road that connects Kampala Road and Nakasero Market (the roads have names, but the streets don’t have signs, so I don’t know many of them), the radio station 87.9 broadcasts from behind thick glass and protected by rungs of metal bars. Listening is almost as good as watching, so a crowd five people thick burgeoned, as if attached to the glass.

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